Dispatches

• This One Goes to Eleven: Shellshocked in Cairo.
• Siteseeing in Smogville: Bazaar sites & old rocks.
• Technicolor History: The splendor of Luxor.
• Random Thoughts: Freelancing, Egyptian style.
• Dispatch on the Mount: Sinai.

Photos
(To come)

Random Thoughts and Tips

• Do not stay at the Windsor Hotel in Cairo. The worst hotel of our trip.
• Limit your time in Cairo, maximize your time in Luxor.
• For lounging on the beach, your main choices are Sharm el Sheik and Dahab. Sharm is huge resorts and package tourists (and the accompanying restaurants and stores) while Dahab is pure backpacker. Take your pick.
• Abu Simbal is impressive, but unless the ticketing process has changed I would suggest booking a tour that includes the admission ticket. We got stuck in the mob of ticket buyers, because the entire convoy arrives at exactly the same time. Those with pre-purchased tickets waltzed right in.
• Saqqara is neat. Memphis didn't have much.
• We were somewhat disappointed with Alexandria. Not too many sights to see, and the whole "strolling along the waterfront" thing isn't quite what it's cracked up to be.
• Go everywhere in Luxor. It's all impressive -- Valley of the Kings, Queens, Nobles; Karnak. And we felt the extra $$$ for Nefertari's tomb was worth it.
• Mt. Sinai was an interesting hike, but if you're not into hiking it probably isn't worth the trip out there just to see St. Katherine's.
• The "wagons-lit" train from Cairo to Luxor is clean and comfortable, but don't count on much sleep. They wake you really early to serve you breakfast.
• Head the Nile Hilton when you need a break from Cairo. Good pizza at their Italian cafe. Pretty good Internet cafe in the attached mall.

Books

Baghdad Without A Map: A great book by Tony Horowitz about his travels through the Middle East. Really funny, really insightful. This book helped us keep our sanity amongst the madness.

Our Route